Sandwiched between a George Street topless bar and discount chemist is a new city restaurant like no other. Created by Happy Boy owners Cameron and Jordan Votan, along with Nick Turner and Michael Larsen – partners with Cameron in online wine business Spokenwine – Greenglass officially opened today, serving breakfast until 2pm.
To find the dining room, you climb an anonymous flight of stairs and follow a blacker-than-black corridor past the kitchen and into a brightly-lit space, reminiscent of a New York-style loft with a white palette, minimalistic furnishings and vast windows.
“We’re always on the lookout for interesting spaces,” Cameron says. “This place really stood out. You walk through this dark room, but then you open up on this expanse, which is really what we’re trying to do — an expanse in the city.”
There’s a concise breakfast menu backed by expertly made espresso courtesy of Coffee Supreme. All items are priced under $15, and feature options such as Mediterranean-style eggs with finely diced capsicum and zucchini, anchovies, cherry tomatoes and basil, and a breakfast sandwich with egg, crisp pork belly, cheddar, avocado, tomato chutney and mustard.
The morning service is just a warm-up. When lunch and dinner get underway around the turn of the month, expect to see French classics such as steak frites and confit salmon. The main focus, though, will be the wine. More specifically, affordable boutique Australian drops sourced from Spokenwine. In total, 110 wines will be displayed on the wall, backed by an even more extensive cellar selection.
That’s where Turner comes in. The wine specialist will hop across from his familiar spot behind the bar at Happy Boy. “At Greenglass, we can really make wines front and centre,” Turner says. “I want it to be the place where people can come to and try interesting wines with a reliably good but not expensive meal.”
Given the restaurant’s obscure location, Turner reckons there won’t be too many people stumbling across Greenglass. Rather, he expects to slowly build a loyal set of customers who return for the service on offer. “We don’t do everything,” Turner says. “We just do what we do well and try to do it perfectly.”
336 George Street, Brisbane
Mon to Fri 7.30am—2pm