Local Knowledge: Swiss Gourmet Deli Still Makes (Almost) Everything In-House

Above Swiss Gourmet Deli’s entrance is a sign that reads: “Specialists in Porchetta”. That description might be downplaying things, since the West End deli has been roasting, slicing and sandwiching porchetta for almost 40 years.

The recipe is from owner Peter Marinelli’s father. It’s “special because of the spices and the cooking process,” he tells Broadsheet. “The secret is that the best cut to use to make roast pork is the shoulder. It’s not as fatty, it’s very tender and has a lot of flavour.”

Marinelli was born in West End to first-generation Italian parents. In the ’60s, his family took over West End Poultry Shop on Vulture Street. Two decades later, they sold it and took over the existing Swiss Gourmet Deli on Boundary Street in 1987. The deli had first opened in the mid-’50s under the name Ford’s Delicatessen. When the Marinellis took over, they were also running Marinelli Catering, which remains a key part of the deli’s offering.

After all these years, Peter still lives and breathes West End. He is the president of the West End Traders Association and heavily involved in the local council. He’s seen hundreds of businesses come and go.

It’s a Wednesday morning when Broadsheet visits. The outdoor tables are buzzy with people chatting over coffee. The deli’s door is perpetually swinging: some leave with a sandwich or a coffee, others with armfuls of provisions. Customers and deli staff greet passers-by; everyone knows everyone.

Swiss Gourmet Deli (or West End Deli, as regulars call it) was the first hospitality venue outside the Brisbane CBD to get a footpath dining permit back in 1994. Since then, the deli has both evolved and stayed the same.

For instance, the sandwich bar – a small area at the back of the space with a cabinet of sandwich fillings and condiments – was there before the Marinellis took over. They have since expanded the offering. “We’ve always had the sandwich bar because [we are] based on a New York-style deli where you can come in and choose your own fillings. We’ve kept the core business [alive], like the traditional deli and groceries,” Peter says. The coffee offering, takeaway wines and dietary-friendly options are more recent additions.

Ninety-five per cent of the products at the deli are made in-house, from the roast chicken and silverside in the Reuben right down to the marinated eggplant and mayonnaise. Peter’s wife Maria Marinelli looks after the baked goods. When Maria married Peter, she brought her Portuguese influence to the deli’s offering. Her pasteis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) are iconic. Her repertoire spans a variety of other desserts (sour cherry pie, friand, pear and almond tart) as well as savoury pies, quiches and frittatas.

Once a broader term for a place selling cured meats, pantry staples and specialty goods, “deli” has, in recent years, become shorthand for a modern sandwich shop. Swiss Gourmet is one of the only traditional delis left in Brisbane, alongside New Farm Deli and Pennisi Cuisine.

“The true idea of a delicatessen is to walk in, grab a certain grocery line that you need, a special item for your cooking or if you want a roll or sandwich made or some sliced meat and cheese. The belief I’ve been brought up with is when people eat, they want to eat traditional foods like home cooking.” Peter says. “When I took over, there were four delis in West End. But since then, people have retired or have gotten too old with no one to take it over for them. Fortunately, I was young when I took over this one. So, I’m still here.”

The deli’s future is in good hands. Peter and Maria’s sons, Marco and Anthony, now work full-time alongside them and plan to carry on the family legacy.

Swiss Deli Gourmet
181 Boundary Street, West End
(07) 3844 2937

Hours:
Mon to sat 7.30am–3pm

swissgourmet.au/
@swissgourmet