Sunshine, the Hellenika and SK Steak & Oyster Crew’s Casual Vegetarian Eatery, Opens in the Heart of James Street
Words by Matt Shea · Updated on 16 Dec 2022 · Published on 20 Apr 2022
“25 years of industry experience decanted down into a vegetarian takeaway”: that’s how Simon Gloftis describes Sunshine.
He’s joking, but only a little. After a couple of months of delays, Sunshine finally opens today in the James Street premises formerly occupied by Chow House, and it’s much more than your local vego takeout. There’s the sea of bright yellow umbrellas that spreads its way down the sidewalk; an immaculate internal fit-out of archways, timber, brass and rendered off-white walls; classy crazy-paver tiling; and seating for 90 people at fetching timber-top tables with wire-frame chairs and a line of neat booths.
But do-what-you-want dining is at the heart of this place. Order at the counter and fill your plate with any combination of up to 35 Mediterranean-inspired dishes (many of them vegan), ranging from juicy stuffed tomatoes and bean salads to baked spinach rice, spanakopita and orzo pasta. Weigh it by the 100 grams – and then do what you want. Sit and wash it down with something from the 30-strong list of local and vegan-leaning wines, or a spritz or beer. Or take it home and eat it with a steak, and then maybe pack the leftovers for lunch tomorrow. It’s up to you.
“It’s really utilitarian, but in a beautiful setting,” Gloftis says. “It’s basically a beautiful version of the mom-and-pop operations you get in Italy or Greece where they have seven or eight different dishes on the counter, they just put it on a plate for you, and you go and sit down.”
Gloftis is best known for high-profile James Street diners Hellenika and SK Steak & Oyster , and previously owned Gold Coast eateries such as the original Hellenika, Nineteen at The Star and The Fish House. Sunshine, though, is his passion project, a restaurant inspired by the Greek and Polish flavours of his childhood and one he’s wanted to build for six years. It’s why he signed a 25-year lease for the space, and then spent close to $3 million on the fit-out.
“I wanted to get it right,” he says. “So I did the deal but came back after and amended the lease so that we have the whole front area [in front of the Saba and Auguste boutiques], so it’s boulevard-style dining that continues along the street.
“We had to upgrade the power. We have these massive iVario cooking stations. We’ve got four 20-tray combi ovens. We have blast chillers and commercial vegetable washers. I’m mates with guys like [ Mr Wong , Ms G’s and The Establishment executive chef] Dan Hong and they’re asking, ‘What’s that?’ We’re using equipment they haven’t seen before.”
Gloftis, along with business partners Theo Kampolis and Kelvin Andrews, wants Sunshine to change James Street – not only with its umbrellas and olive trees, which are a bright new beacon on the strip, but also with its food, which is entirely vegetarian or vegan, with gluten- and nut-free options available.
“On James Street the offering for a casual lunch for people who work here is kind of slim,” Gloftis says. “All of my venues, you can eat there more than once a week. But here you can eat every day.
“I want people to come and feel comfortable like you would at a coffee shop, but you get a beautiful nourishing meal that’s tasty and really just goes to your soul. Then, if you feel like a drink and you want to hang out a bit or get a bottle of wine or have a beer, you can do that as well.”
Sunshine
39 James Street, Fortitude Valley
Hours:
Daily 11am–11pm
