Mademoiselle, the new brasserie at Portside Wharf, reflects its name: it’s French and chic, with a younger, more trendy touch, says co-owner Harry Ohayon.
“Whenever we go to Paris, we love to visit the brasseries. We love the way of dining and wanted to bring that to Brisbane … But we also want to cater to young people and families.”
Mademoiselle opened in October near Ohayon and French-born co-owner Maxime Bournazel’s boulangerie Rise Bakery. The restaurant’s Frenchy fit-out contrasts the modernity of Portside Wharf with classic features like brass detailing, bistro chairs, banquette seating and encaustic tiles.
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SUBSCRIBE NOWIt’s currently the only French dining option at Portside Wharf, filling a gap in the precinct’s culinary offerings. Its arrival also reflects Brisbane’s ongoing rendezvous with French cuisine, from classic fine dining to takeaway-only patisseries.
“One part of why there is a lot of French food outside of France is because of [the] attachment to our culture,” suggests Ohayon. “The gastronomy and food culture in France is massive. But the current climate and economic situation is not ideal for chefs, so there are lots of French expats seeking careers overseas.”
The kitchen is led by Laurent Hoffarth, a French chef with Michelin cred who brings a mix of traditional techniques and contemporary flair to the menu. His summer menu is dominated by lesser-known regional dishes from the south of France, like bourride (a seafood stew from the Mediterranean coast, with aioli-infused broth, mussels and prawns) and tomate farcie (stuffed tomato with pangrattato and goat’s cheese), alongside more recognised dishes like Julia Child’s niçoise salad, steak frites and devilled eggs with confit prawn.
To highlight local produce, Hoffarth swaps snails for mussels in the moules au beurre d’escargot, and used Bannockburn chickens for the rotisserie chook.
“It is right now a southern France, Provence menu,” says Ohayon. “In winter, you can expect baked dishes from the north of France where the food is rich and hearty. In a year’s span, we want to take the customer around the whole country.”
The pair have kept the French-leaning wine list concise and considered, with a few whites, a few reds and a single rosé by the glass, alongside a larger bottle offering that crosses Bordeaux, the Loire Valley, Alsace and the Rhone Valley.
Mademoiselle
Shop 9.5, 39 Hercules Street, Hamilton
0466 801 777
Hours:
Sun to Thu 11.30am–9.30pm
Fri & Sat 11.30am–10pm
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