Penelope Is a Bistro and Supper Club Leading a Quiet Revolution on James Street

These days, a new bar and restaurant opening on James Street is hardly a surprise. The Valley’s culinary centre of gravity has been shifting towards the luxury shopping strip since 2018, when The Calile Hotel and its elegant Greek restaurant Hellenika opened their doors.

Penelope, the cosy new bistro from the Coats Group (Maya and Il Molo), is surrounded by storied venues like Same Same, Essa and Gerard’s Bistro. Despite the intimidating company, Penelope manages to bring something new to the neighbourhood.

At first glance, “it’s hard to find something that is genuinely missing from the street,” Josh Mitchell, group general manager at Coats Group, tells Broadsheet. But when the old Bar Tano digs became available, everything clicked into place. “It’s an interesting space because it’s semi-subterranean – you go down a couple of stairs to get there.” Like a sunken lounge room from the ’70s, sitting down at Penelope puts you at about knee height for the passers-by.

“There are so many places to people-watch and be seen on James Street. We really wanted to create the antithesis of that. A place where you could settle in for the night and be a little bit hidden away,” says Mitchell.

Settling in is the name of the game. Penelope is open until late from Wednesday to Sunday, with a late-night menu that kicks in after 9.30pm. On weekends, the kitchen is open until midnight. With most James Street venues taking last orders by 10pm, Penelope can’t help but stand out. When Broadsheet visited on a recent Thursday evening, most of the bistro’s 80 seats were full, and they stayed that way as all its neighbours closed for the night.

“The response has been incredible, seeing everybody sitting down for a full dinner service at 11pm,” says Mitchell. “We couldn’t have done this venue four or five years ago … but now it’s at this moment where that late-night dining culture from Sydney and Melbourne is starting to permeate.”

The fit-out draws inspiration from further afield: grand old hotel lobbies in London, New York and Paris. The mid-century modern design, courtesy of Z Architects, combines soft pendant lights, walnut wood and a marble bar. It evokes places like London’s Connaught Hotel bar and Loos Bar in Vienna – storied cocktail dens as famous for their design as their drinks. An illuminated On Air sign, disco ball and fluted glass windows add a playful touch.

The menu walks a fine line between classic hotel bistro dishes – steak frites, beef tartare, Waldorf salad – and trending fancified comfort food like chicken tenders with caviar and Japanese-style fish-finger sandwiches. “We believe the classics are classics for a reason. So the menu conjures up a little bit of nostalgia, but at the same time it’s approachable,” says Mitchell.

The 100-bottle wine list leans on French and Italian drops, as does the concise beer menu and a welcome array of vermouths. There are 20 cocktails on offer – mostly high-end twists on classics – including a six-strong Martini list without an Espresso Martini in sight.

Despite its night-time success, Mitchell is quick to emphasise Penelope isn’t just a late-night venue. “I don’t want to just pigeonhole us as the afterparty venue. It’s a space that can evolve throughout the day depending on what kind of experience you’re looking for.”

Regardless of when you arrive, “there isn’t any pretence,” he says. “We want it to feel like you can come as you are, stay as long as you want, and we’re going to show you a good time.”

Penelope
15 James Street, Fortitude Valley
(07) 3473 3588

Hours:
Wed to Thu 4pm–late
Fri to Sun midday–late

penelopebistro.com.au
@penelope.bistro