Now Open: Milquetoast, a Late-Night Wine Bar in a Former CBD Garage, Is Anything But

You may wonder why a new wine bar in the city is called Milquetoast – another word for feeble, insipid, or bland – but owners George Curtis and James Horsfall know exactly what they’re doing.

“[People] are like, ‘why would you call it that?’ But that’s where the irony comes in,” Curtis told Broadsheet. “We’re trying to be anything but those things.”

You might already recognise the duo. Curtis owns George Street amaro bar Before & After, and Horsfall is the sommelier at Boonah’s destination diner, Blume. Several years ago, while working together at Wilston’s now-closed Elska, they first floated the idea of opening a bar together.

And here it is, opened earlier this week in a former CBD car garage. Broadsheet was there on opening night, and the venue was at full capacity. The industrial fit-out is offset by homey mismatched vintage furniture, warm wooden surfaces and wine bottles lining the walls. An open kitchen and bar on one side the space lets punters in on the action.

To find the venue, head down a laneway off Elizabeth Street, past the bright neon lights of late-night bourbon bar, Alice. Milquetoast will also trade until late on Friday and Saturday nights, creating a late-night hub in the CBD.

“A major factor in opening this venue was having Alice right next to us,” says Curtis. “[We want to] make the laneway a destination where people can spend their entire night.”

While Horsfall continues to work at Blume, he’ll also oversee Milquetoast’s wine program. The list spotlights smaller, mostly lo-fi producers from around the world, and Horsfall is keeping things approachable, with many bottles under $100.

“There are predominately smaller producers and family-run wineries [on the list],” he says. “We’re supporting small businesses like us, but they’re also more interesting, stimulating wines.”

Given the venue’s connection to Before & After, Milquetoast’s intriguing cocktails come as no surprise. We love the HT Webster, mixing Amaro Montenegro, sesame oil, pumpkin and a whole egg. The drink is dry-shaken first, then with ice to achieve its light and airy consistency. You can also expect several Martinis, low-alc cocktails and plenty of amaro, of course.

Head chef Solenn d’Heilly (ex- Bennelong, Sydney) is behind the British-leaning menu, inspired by the owners’ shared English heritage. Start small with devilled eggs, beetroot, bacon and garlic cream, or crumpets topped with cured fish and smoked curry aioli. Follow up with plates of Urban Valley mushrooms on toast and Cumberland sausages with puy lentils and gremolata.

Don’t miss out on the signature Milquetoast pudding, a fun nod to the venue’s name, served with amaro-soaked raisins and custard.

Milquetoast
199 Elizabeth Street, Brisbane City

Hours:
Tue to Sun 4pm–late

milquetoastwinebar.com.au
@milquetoastwinebar