In 2014, Bonnie Shearston and Tom Sanceau opened the pint-sized Red Hook in Gresham Lane. Because of the venue’s size the duo (who also co-own Ruby, My Dear) could only offer a concise menu of burgers, wings and street eats. Their ingenuity paid off and Red Hook became a hit.

Now, a decade later, they’ve launched a Dumbo, after the slice of Brooklyn under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass.

“Rather than replicate Red Hook and roll it out into venues where it wouldn’t have that grungy, laneway vibe, we thought, let’s create a group of burger restaurants, each with its own personality and individuality,” Shearston says.

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With a larger kitchen than Red Hook, Dumbo’s menu is more expansive and ambitious. There’s fried chicken and waffles with Korean hot honey; a fish sando with American cheese; a rye bagel stuffed with pastrami and Swiss cheese; and a mushroom po’boy. Shearston is particularly excited about the “dirty water dogs”.

“They are these skinny frankfurters boiled in water with lots of spices,” she says. Cinnamon is mixed through the tomato sauce and the onions, giving the dogs an extra zing. “It looks so simple, but it’s really flavourful and delicious.”

Red Hook’s favourites have made the journey to Dumbo too. The Brooklyn cheeseburger (thick or smash patties with cheese, special sauce, ketchup and pickles); the Uptown Funk (smash patties with gorgonzola cheese, caramelised onion and bacon); and the Shaolin Soul (Southern fried chicken with miso mayonnaise, char siu sauce and lettuce) are all there.

The venue’s fit-out is modern and sleek with white seating, brick walls and terracotta tiling. While subtle, the design nods to ’90s New York diners.

The larger space also allows for an expanded drinks menu. Dumbo has 40 bottles and a more extensive cocktail list, including a pickle Margarita. On tap there’s Coors Lager, Brouhaha’s Strawberry and Rhubarb Sour and Yulli’s Mandarin IPA.

Dumbo is the latest in a series of new venues to open at Portside Wharf, joining The Ballpark Portside, Rise Bakery and the soon-to-be relaunched Byblos.

Dumbo
37C Harbour Road, Hamilton
0450 045 542

Hours:
Wed & Thu 11.30am–9pm
Fri & Sat 11.30am–11pm
Sun 11.30am–4pm

www.dumborestaurant.com.au
@dumbo_restaurant