First Look: Marlowe, a Classic Bistro Built on Aussie Nostalgia, Opens on Fish Lane

Walking into Marlowe feels like stepping back in time – and into someone’s home. It’s warm, inviting, and little eclectic. There’s assorted silverware, antique forks, and lamps that look like they belong on a dressing table. It’s like a classed-up, cooler version of your nan’s place.

“[There’s a] feeling we’re trying to evoke from people when they come in,” co-owner David Flynn tells Broadsheet. “We want it to feel homely, intimate, and a little bit quirky – which is what old homes are.”

Marlowe is the latest venue by the Fanda Group (Southside, Central, Rick Shores and Norté), which opened to family and friends this week on Fish Lane. It’s inside a heritage-listed 1938 apartment block – once known as the Merivale Flats – with the bistro spanning four former apartments, complete with sunrooms and a terrace.

Because of its heritage status, the space hasn’t been changed all that much, but that’s a good thing. “Hopefully, it still looks like it might have been a home at one point,” says Flynn.

Marlowe is light and clean, with cream-coloured walls, mirrored surfaces, timber furniture and marble. Just like with Central and Norté, Fanda Group brought in J.AR Design for the fit-out.

In the kitchen is co-owner Ollie Hansford, previously at the helm of Siffredi’s Spaghetti Bar and Rita’s in Teneriffe (the former has since closed, the latter is under new ownership). Before that, he led the kitchens at St Kilda’s Stokehouse and its now-closed Brisbane sibling, Stokehouse Q.

Hansford’s menu leans into the character of the building, drawing inspiration from ’50s and ’60s dining. The menu is filled with nostalgic Aussie classics, from scones and Marie Rose sauce to pavlova and trifle.

“It’s been pretty fun researching some classic cookbooks and recipes from the early-to-mid-1900s,” says Hansford, citing Ross Dobson’s The Lost Recipes as an example. “There’s some cool recipes we’ve picked from these books, but mostly we drew inspiration from how people were eating [back then].”

To start, there are snacks like cheddar scones with chicken pâté, curried crab brioche and prawn cocktail tartlets. Starters include smoked cheese soufflé and a clam and saffron risotto. Mains make use of a woodfired hearth – built by The Brick Chef, Sam Fraraccio – turning out dishes such as a spiced pork chop with caramelised apple, stuffed chicken breast with mushrooms and sherry sauce, and a coral trout Wellington with chive butter sauce.

It’s early days, but some signatures are already emerging: a duck pie with jus and radicchio jam; a cheesy garlic bread made with Lune croissant dough; and The Marlowe Mixed Grill, which includes Wagyu sirloin, lamb cutlets, beef tongue skewer and Cumberland pork sausage.

Hansford has also dug deep when sourcing ingredients, choosing lesser-known producers from around South East Queensland. He says Marlowe is currently the only Brisbane venue using chicken from Joyce’s Gold Heritage Poultry, Wagyu from Elbow Valley Beef and yabbies from Cherax Park Aquaculture Farm.

On the drinks front, group beverage director Peter Marchant has put together a wine list that’s entirely Australian, save for champagne, which is French, naturally. There’s a focus on classic producers like Rockford, Henschke and Penfolds – with a notable collection of back vintages – alongside smaller winemakers. The list is complemented by a strong showing of cocktails, made with local spirits and liqueurs, including Loborn amaro from Mount Tamborine.

Marlowe officially opens on Tuesday, September 23. Bookings available online.

Marlowe
105 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane
07 3505 6412

Hours:
Tue & Wed 5pm–9pm
Thu to Sat midday– 3pm, 5pm–9pm

www.marlowebne.com.au
@marlowebne