Flour, salt, yeast, butter and sugar. That’s all you need to make a kouign-amann (pronounced “queen ah-mahn”). Yet despite the deceptively simple recipe, this French pastry (originally from Brittany), is much harder to make – and master – than it sounds. So, what is it exactly?
“It’s [like] a caramelised croissant,” Kirsty Hustwick tells Broadsheet. If you’ve ever eaten a kouign-amann from Riser Bread, chances are Hustwick was the one who made it. Hustwick’s journey with kouign-amanns began while she was working at Loafer Bread in Melbourne.
“I remember when I started making them, I couldn’t believe how much butter and sugar [went into them],” she says. “[Imagine] a croissant and double the amount of sugar.”
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SUBSCRIBE NOWAfter rolling out the dough and laminating it with butter (like you would for a croissant), you would add a whole layer of tonka bean-infused sugar into the dough before squeezing the dough into small ring-shaped moulds lined with butter and sugar. As the kouign-amann bakes, the butter on the inside of the dough steams and creates layers. On the outside, the sugar and butter caramelises, creating a golden, crispy exterior.
In the perfect kouign-amman, Hustwick looks for a solid rise, a nice crown shape on top and a good amount of caramelisation. But even a skilled baker like Hustwick admits she’s still striving to get consistent results. Regardless, we reckon her kouign-amanns are some of the best.
From classic renditions to more innovative interpretations, here’s where to find five of the city’s finest kouign-amanns.
Riser Bread
The kouign-amanns at Riser are some of the most traditional on this list. Perfectly caramelised on the outside with a hint of tonka bean flavour, you can opt to add a scoop of orange and vanilla-infused mascarpone, which cuts through the sweetness and adds an extra layer of decadence.
Banneton
At first glance, the kouign-amann at Banneton looks fairly traditional, but once you bite into the rich caramelised crust, you’re treated to a soft, custard-filled centre. The sought-after treat is only available from Friday to Sunday, so plan accordingly.
Lune
Shaped like a spiralised hockey puck, the kouign-amann at Lune looks very different to other versions around town. In her book, Lune: Croissants All Day, All Night, Lune’s own Kate Reid talks about how she spotted a similarly shaped kouign-amann in a patisserie while living in Paris. Due to the intimidating, hard-to-pronounce name, it took her a few visits to build up the courage to ask for it, but when she finally tried it, she was hooked. Due to the shape, Lune’s version is extra crispy, with glossy caramelisation and satisfying flakiness.
Agnes Bakery
On most days, the cabinet at Agnes Bakery includes a wide variety of kouign-amanns. The team at Agnes plays with flavours, offering innovative options such as a custard and almond-filled kouign-amann, another topped with buttercream and berry and a simple but delicious cinnamon rendition.
Christian Jacques
At Christian Jacques, where it’s always worth waiting in the line that extends out the door, you’ll find a range of kouign-amanns including plain, custard and apple tatin. The custard-filled option is especially popular, selling out every weekend; the pastry’s crispy and flaky crust and soft, creamy interior is downright addictive.