First Service: Find Traditional Goat Birria, Mezcal and Frozen Margs at Birria Boy in Woolloongabba

Given the popularity of birria tacos (a juicy quesadilla served with a side of consommé for dipping) in Australia, it’s surprising we haven’t seen the traditional goat version from Jalisco appear in Brisbane – until now.

Birria Boy, a pop-up from the C’est Bon team, opened in Woolloongabba on Friday. They’re serving goat birria, done in a traditional way. They get whole goats from Meredith Dairy, butcher them down and slow-cook the meat for 15 hours. It’s then drained, with the consommé made from the cooking liquid. The meat is crisped up and served inside house-made yellow masa cornflour tortillas with green pico de gallo, goat’s cheese and tomatillo.

“You’ve got to risk it to make it sometimes,” co-owner and chef Andy Ashby tells Broadsheet. “I don’t know many [Mexican] restaurants that would attempt to have goat on their menu, but paying homage and having that piece of knowledge to give back to the customer – it’s worth a crack.”

If anyone can pull it off, it’s Ashby. The chef has been extensively researching Mexican cuisine, talking to Rebeca Flores of the now-closed La Patrona, eating his way through as many taquerias as he could, and working with Poblano, a Mexican food supplier, to source authentic ingredients. He also tested recipes on people he didn’t know to ensure honest feedback.

“I’m a Kiwi in a French restaurant – people can wrap their [heads] around that,” he says. “But if we open a Mexican restaurant, how’s that going to be perceived? You need to do your R&D.”

Birria Boy has taken over the former Clarence space next door to C’est Bon, and the addition of neon, cacti and vibrant tiling has added colour and energy. Meanwhile, an open kitchen lets diners watch the tortillas being pressed, cooked and filled to order.

The menu includes three birria variants: slow-cooked Wagyu beef cheek with jalapeno salsa and coriander; braised mushroom with Oaxacan cheese and mustard; and the goat birria. Other tacos include confit duck with frijoles, burnt orange and radish, and tempura prawn with tomatillo.

Snacks range from elotes (roasted corn ribs) and rellenos (woodfired jalapenos stuffed with chorizo) to al pastor skewers. Larger plates make use of a woodfired oven that once belonged to Vespa Pizza. Think pork neck served with mole, butterflied chicken asado, and a banana leaf-wrapped cod. Each comes with tortillas and sauces for building your own tacos.

Birria Boy worked closely with supplier Mextrade to curate a selection of mezcal and tequila, alongside Mexican beers and cocktails. There are also alcoholic slushies and frozen Margaritas, which are sure to be a hit over summer.

Birria Boy Taqueria
617 Stanley Street, Woolloongabba
No phone

Hours:
Thu 4pm–10pm
Fri & Sat 11:30am–2.30pm, 4pm–11pm
Sun & Mon: 4pm–10pm

www.birriaboy.com.au
@birriaboy.au