Seven To Try: Brisbane’s Best Omurice, From Tonkatsu-Flavoured to Curry-Topped “Lava” Versions

Few Japanese foods are as contradictory as omurice. The dish of rice wrapped in an omelette has been enthusiastically adopted by foodtokkers and Instagram chefs keen to demonstrate their culinary prowess with what’s been called “the world’s hardest omelette to make”. Ironically, in its country of origin, omurice is more often seen as a simple, homestyle meal – something kids can learn to cook.

Omurice belongs to the confusingly named category of yoshoku, meaning Western food, along with the likes of kare pan (fried bread filled with curry) and katsu sandos – hardly staples in the West. Still, omurice is shorter on history and less bound by tradition than typical washoku (Japanese food) like sushi.

Variations are plentiful. Omurice has just three common elements: a mound of (usually fried) rice, an egg omelette and (usually tomato) sauce. Plus a spoon to eat it with; remember, this is Western food.

Two restaurants – Rengatei in Tokyo and Hokkyokusei in Osaka – claim credit for the early-20th-century invention of omurice, but neither is responsible for the more modern version gracing your social media feed. The oval-shaped egg topper that unfurls when sliced open, revealing its soft scrambled egg centre as it envelopes the rice beneath it, was invented by chef Motegi Masa-aki for a scene in the 1985 film Tampopo. Practice and timing are key to cooking and folding the omelette so it unfurls perfectly. A single mistake makes for a delicious mess.

Luckily, you don’t have to fly to Japan or sharpen your omelette skills to enjoy top-quality omurice. Restaurants and cafes around Brisbane are putting their own spins on the highly adaptable dish. These are the seven to try.

Prawn omurice, Snug

Of the many good reasons to visit Snug, the prawn omurice is one of the best. This rich, comforting bowl of egg and vegetable rice dramatically topped with a butterflied king prawn has remained a firm fan favourite since its debut – no mean feat at a venue that loves switching up its menu. There’s no tomato here; the zesty sauce is a mix of shiitake, lemon, soy and kombu. It’s not the most traditional serve of omurice, but it’s a testament to just how flexible the dish can be.

Tornado omurice, Omupapa

No omurice odyssey is complete without a visit to the only venue in Brisbane specialising in the dish. Omupapa’s offerings run the gamut of omurice serves, from the old-fashioned Petite Parcel to the Tampopo-style Volcano. But the Tornado omurice is the standout. The egg’s distinctive vortex shape is made by pinching the omelette with chopsticks and rotating the pan as it fries, ensuring the central swirl stays softer than the edges. Choose from six sauces to complete your omurice – our pick is the classic tomato.

Omurice, Moreish

The off-menu lunch special at Moreish is one of the more traditional omurice options in Brisbane. There are no flourishes aimed at Instagram here, just vegetable fried rice tightly wrapped in an omelette, topped with sesame seeds and a rich, house-made demi-glace sauce. There’s a side salad to cut through the saltiness, and the cafe’s smoothies are ideal if you need something sweet to finish.

Tonkotsu omurice, Wuta Cafe

Mostly known for its matcha, Wuta Cafe also makes an omurice that takes inspiration from ramen. Steamed white rice is covered in an omelette and tonkotsu pork bone broth is poured over it. Then, typical tonkotsu ramen toppings are added: chashu pork, spring onions, yuzu kosho (fermented chilli and yuzu peel) and dried bonito flakes. It’s an unusual fusion that fits firmly into the anything-goes spirit of omurice.

Unagi omurice, Hikari

This Sunnybank Hills spot has a range of omurice options, and both its original and tofu-topped versions are vegetarian-friendly, but the unagi omurice sets Hikari apart. The dome-shaped heap of fried rice and egg is capped with grilled unagi (freshwater eel) that’s been marinated in a sweet soy sauce. Bright orange tobiko (flying fish roe) and sesame seeds complete the picture, plus more of that sticky soy sauce.

Massaman katsu omurice, Mocha & Chino Cafe

This distinctive serve at Mocha & Chino wears its Thai influences both outside and in. It’s covered in the cafe’s sweet, slightly sour massaman curry and, instead of short-grain Japanese rice, the fluffy egg hides a mound of steamed jasmine rice. Mixing Thai cuisine and omurice may not make much sense on paper, but it’s a perfect combination on the plate. Although the curry is the hero here, what makes it all work is the chicken katsu. It’s a natural match for massaman, which is typically made with chicken, and it keeps the dish tied to its yoshoku roots.

Lava omurice, Koto Sanpo

This CBD spot has the delightfully maximalist approach of Japan’s family restaurants: a photo-heavy, encyclopaedic menu; elaborate parfait desserts; and a focus on Western-style dishes. Koto Sanpo’s signature omurice can be kitted out with katsu slabs and seafood, but it really needs no embellishment. As the name implies, it arrives doused in sauce – your choice of demi-glace or curry. Surprisingly, it comes with plain steamed rice, not fried, but there’s so much egg and sauce that the dish isn’t short on flavour.