+81 Sushi Kappo, the Long-Awaited Japanese Omakase Restaurant, Opens in West End Tonight

When a new restaurant opens, a soft opening is usually brief – a few nights, maybe a week. It’s a chance to iron out last-minute creases, tweak dishes and give the team time to find its rhythm. Running a two-month soft opening, however, is practically unheard of. But for something as serious as +81 Sushi Kappo, the longer run-up makes sense.

Tonight, the 12-seat omakase restaurant officially opens in West End.

Owned by Hisatake Kamori, +81 Sushi Kappo is the long-awaited sequel to Aizome Bar, which opened in late 2024. Kamori is also co-owner of neighbouring distillery and bar, By Artisans. While he has opened restaurants in Japan before, this is his first in Australia – and it’s quite a debut. 

The entry is hidden behind a curtain inside Aizome Bar. Step through and you see a dark, minimalist counter, with dim lighting over diners and a sharper focus on the chefs at work. It’s a considered fit-out by designer Alexander Lotersztain, highlighting the theatre of the counter.

The menu doesn’t come cheap (it’s $450), but consider the résumé of head chef Ikuo Kobayashi, who was flown in to lead the kitchen. He trained at Kyubey, a revered sushi spot in Ginza, Tokyo, before working at Sushi Kanesaka in the same city – a restaurant with two Michelin stars.

“It’s incredible to work with someone of his calibre,” says venue manager and sommelier Sean Lam (ex-Ritz Carlton, Flower Drum). “Everything [Kobayashi does] is very calm, disciplined and intentional.”

When I visit, the meal begins with chilled katsuo dashi (bonito broth), while Kobayashi grills New Zealand nanyou kinmedai over a straw-fuelled fire. With pristine knife skill, he slices the fish, serving it alongside raw Tasmanian southern bluefin tuna chutoro and Queensland coral trout.

“It’s all about the progression of the meal and how it builds quietly,” Lam says. “We’re not trying to knock you out with caviar [or] lobster. Everything is about subtlety and craftmanship, rather than excess.”

Later, Tasmanian uni is folded through vinegared rice, topped with Hokkaido uni and finely diced Tasmanian southern bluefin negitoro. Lam says this course is one of his favourites. It’s also one of mine.

Equally impressive is the nigiri, made with Kobayashi’s signature shari (sushi rice). He serves a charcoal shari and a vivid blue version coloured with spirulina sourced from Iceland. As the meal continues, the rice is tucked under slender slices of straw-seared bonito, Tasmanian southern bluefin tuna akami and Marble King Wagyu sirloin.

For drinks, Lam has curated a list of over 200 wines and around 100 different sakés, with pairing options available across wine, saké  and non-alcoholic formats. Soon, the neo cocktails head bartender Tony Huang pioneered at Aizome Bar will also be available as pairings.

Before the night ends, guests are invited into the adjoining lounge – featuring a 1970s Sanyo turntable and vintage Japanese records – to relax and reflect on the meal. “These days, a lot of restaurants run double sittings and it’s literally, ‘Thank you very much, bye',’” Lam says. “It’s a very abrupt end. We invite guests into the lounge as an extension of our omotenashi [hospitality].”

+81 Sushi Kappo

259 Montague Road, West End

0473 958 399

Hours:

Tue to Sat: 5:30pm–late (seatings at 5:30pm and 8:30pm)

www.plus81.com.au/plus-eight-one-sushi-kappo

@plus81sushikappo