King Tea owes its name to the original snack bar that occupied the building when Paddington Central was still a tram depot. But now it’s tapas, not tea, that’s on the menu.

The Latrobe Terrace venue is one open space, with exposed wooden rafters and pared-back finishings that highlight its original brickwork. The bar and open kitchen run along the length of the space, facing rows of shared bench seating.

It has a social, dining-hall feel and is by the same team behind Hai-Hai Ramen and Remy’s.

King Tea started out with a Spanish menu but more recently switched to rustic Chinese fare. Think cult favourites like sweet and sour pork and a King Tea rendition of crispy duck alongside house-made dumplings and vegetarian wonton noodle soup.

Drinks are beers, a low intervention wine list and a selection of cocktails, all designed to go with Chinese food.