In 1986, a tiny French bistro brought chaos, crowds and service with attitude to South Yarra. It’s matured into one of Melbourne’s pre-eminent restaurants, attracting the likes of Bruce Springsteen and Mick Jagger. We speak to those who were there for it all – owner Jean-Paul Prunetti, long-time staff and regulars – about its place in their hearts, the pulling power of consistency and its undeniable endurance. (Plus, what’s percolating next door.)