Hilary McNevin (words) And Parker Blain (photography)

In 1986, a tiny French bistro brought chaos, crowds and service with attitude to South Yarra. It’s matured into one of Melbourne’s pre-eminent restaurants, attracting the likes of Bruce Springsteen and Mick Jagger. We speak to those who were there for it all – owner Jean-Paul Prunetti, long-time staff and regulars – about its place in their hearts, the pulling power of consistency and its undeniable endurance. (Plus, what’s percolating next door.)

A professional skateboarder and a snowboarder from age 14, Dave Verheul never imagined becoming a chef. But a sporting accident saw his life take a dramatic turn and led him to open acclaimed Carlton diner Town Mouse, and hone his signature style: flavour first, no gimmicks.

Cooking is the only thing that ever made sense to the Estonia-born head chef at Fitzroy’s Anada, who takes a no-bullshit approach to harassment in her kitchen.

The candid chef-owner of Ramblr began his cooking career at pizza shops and an RSL in Queensland. Now in Melbourne, he’s finally found his rhythm.

The owner and chef of South Melbourne’s Lûmé is not only brave when it come to pushing boundaries in his cooking, he’s pretty upfront about what makes him tick, too.

Few chefs take their role as guide and teacher as seriously as Pierre Khodja, owner of Camus.

The 23-year-old chef and owner of Atlas Dining on TV chefs, changing the menu every four months and making time for a morning run.

The pair behind Union Dining decides to close after almost six years on Swan Street.

Becoming a good chef takes more than a love of cooking. There’s the love of feeding people and listening to them, too. Ricky & Pinky’s Archan Chan is one chef who has that love in spades.

The leader of an all-female kitchen brigade, and chef and co-owner of Richmond’s Anchovy.

He can talk about stocks and sauces all day and says a good reduction is an art form. Meet the head chef of Fitzroy’s Hell of the North.

She takes oil-painting classes, is a self-confessed book nerd and may well become a food historian. There’s more to the South African-born, Neighbourhood Wine chef than her cooking.