A wallop of Aussie nostalgia powers the menu at House of George, the second iteration of the Big Easy Group’s East Terrace taverna, Yiasou George. Flavours from Greece and the wider Mediterranean are represented here, as well as those from northern and southern Africa, a reflection of chef Sav Sexton’s heritage.

During their time at Good Gilbert, Sexton loved digging into retro Australiana. They’ve continued that here with a ’70s-inspired ritz cracker topped with housemade anchovies and “café de Vardon” butter (a spin on café de Paris butter featuring a North African spice mix) and smoked Yarra Valley salmon roe.

As ever, fire plays a big role in the kitchen. Turkish snake peppers are blistered over an open-flame grill, to be served with toum and shavings of smoked cheddar. A rotisserie is put to good use for a porchetta-style Magra lamb rump stuffed with merguez sausage – in honour of Yiasou George’s signature woodfired lamb.

To drink, there’s a first-class wine list championing minimal intervention producers from here and interstate. Think local names like Jauma, and interstate producers including WA’s Brave New Wine.

The atmosphere is more friendly neighbourhood diner than slick CBD restaurant, with polished hospitality from warm waitstaff who might pour you a free shot of ouzo when the evening shifts into gear.