Star of Siam

It’s hard not to wax lyrical about Star of Siam’s sea star dumplings – the parcels of prawn, chicken and squid, which have tiny folds that catch the slightly sweet and tangy red curry sauce that’s been poured over them.

When the restaurant opened in the 1980s, such cuisine was groundbreaking. Today it’s the location, staff and strong menu that keep it relevant all these years later.

While the restaurant gets loud and busy, service is always efficient and you’re never forgotten. It’s largely due to the vivacious host who runs the show out front. Expect a bit of playful banter once you become a regular and you’ll realise its all part of the charm.

Green chicken curry makes the menu, but it’s not the star. Instead try the miang pla – crispy snapper and cashew nuts on a betel leaf – or crispy salt and pepper soft shell crab. Prices are heftier than many joints along Gouger Street, but Star of Siam is clean and modern with a few more comforts than some of its neighbours.

There’s a full wine list – or you can BYO for $15 a bottle – but for the true taste of Thailand opt for a Thai beer or sweet iced milk tea.