Press Food & Wine
Pork buns alongside Morcilla (Spanish blood) sausage, mac ‘n’ cheese next to pappardelle – there are no culinary boundaries at Press* Food and Wine, the restaurant from a five-strong team including chef Andrew Davies (ex-Bistro Dom), front-of-house star Sally Davey and restaurateur Simon Kardachi (Proof, Bread and Bone, Maybe Mae, Melt).
It’s a less-than-safe approach, but Press* knows what it’s doing. This potent mix of local and international talent is piled randomly under menu headings such as “raw”, “offal”, “from the wood grill” and “bigger”. Thus, spice-rubbed quail comfortably rubs wings with fresh oysters and a burger, while daikon and green bean salad contrasts with six-hour braised brisket with mac ‘n’ cheese.
Likewise, there's contrast between the dining areas. In the casual downstairs area, you can nab a seat for one against the wall and engage in a bit of people watching. Upstairs is a more intimate white tablecloth atmosphere.
The wine list – another local/international affair – reads like a novel and it’s always changing, so you’d be wise to seek advice from the the clued-up staff.
The beer and spirits lists are slightly easier given explanatory headings such as “malty” and “hoppy”. There’s a particular focus on whisky and gin, including many of the greats: Gabriel Boudier, Hendrick’s and Junipero, to start.