Press Food & Wine was an integral part of the revival of Adelaide’s dining scene when it opened in 2011. It was an early champion of nose-to-tail cooking and communal dining – novel concepts in Adelaide at the time. But as tastes and trends have changed, so too has this Waymouth Street institution.

A major reboot in 2022 heralded a new look and direction for the former printing house – one that takes cues from high-end interstate venues such as Rockpool Bar & Grill and Gimlet on Melbourne’s Flinders Lane.

Now, an elegant, curved Italian-marble bar takes centre-stage in the middle of the room. Gone is the communal table, replaced by intimate banquette and bar seating. A mural by artist and Ngarrindjeri/Arrernte man Thomas Readett emblazons the wall separating the kitchen and walkway.

Executive chef Tom Tilbury (previously at Gather at Coriole and taking over here from previous chef-owner Andy Davies) is another addition, bringing with him a menu focused on local, ethically harvested and sustainable produce. Tilbury describes his cooking as plant-influenced, but you can also expect wood-grilled seafood and dry-aged cuts – perhaps even the famous Press Burger in some form.

Press has always possessed a strong, tome-like wine list. The current iteration sees a mix of new-wave and established SA wines alongside a strong European contingent, as well as representatives from the rest of Australia. The cellar is ever-changing, so you’d be wise to seek advice from the the clued-up staff.

Elsewhere, the backbar is stacked with amari, gin, whisk(e)y, rum and brandy, served straight up and in cocktails such as the Smokescreen (whisky, chartreuse, lime), Jasmine Sour (gin, jasmine tea, lemon, grapefruit) and Press Negroni (with gin, vermouth, orange curacao and bitters).