Part Time Lover is a breezy diner with a refined but warm interior - blond wood, pleasing straight lines and statement stonework - that looks as though it’s come straight out of California.

The menu reads as both crowd-pleasing and thoughtful. Divided into three sections – vegetables, fish and meat – it leans heavily on Asian flavours. A third of the dishes are plant-based. Try the sticky barbeque pulled eggplant or the Port Lincoln raw kingfish. It’s fatty and flavoursome, and comes served with zippy green chilli, cucumber and sesame. The JB cheese fries aren’t quite as light: they’re crispy fries under a flurry of grated Parmesan.

To wash it all down, there’s Five Senses coffee, beers and Riot Wines on tap (partly to reduce waste and partly because there’s no storage room), plus a concise cocktail menu of classics including a French 75, a Paloma and a White Russian.