The food at Noi is an homage to childhood of owners Thy and Quang Nguyen (Devour, Shibui, Third Time Lucky) along with Thy’s siblings Phong and Toan, and Toan’s wife, Nhi.

The lamb ribs, which come served with a minty chilli sauce, perfectly demonstrate this. They’re coated in a simple spice rub – it’s called “chilli salt” in Vietnam, though their version also has garlic, lemongrass and sugar. The dish merges traditional Vietnamese flavours with classic backyard barbie fare.

While chargrilling is certainly a feature here, there are lighter dishes too. The bahn trang nuong is Vietnamese-style pizza made on a super-light rice-paper base, topped with mushrooms or pork belly and egg. The expertly seasoned beef carpaccio with puffed rice strikes a perfect fatty-crunchy balance.

The rice paper spring rolls are stuffed with either vegetables, or chicken, crab and prawn, and – thanks to the rice paper – they’re all gluten free. The fried rice is elevated by the inclusion of elements found elsewhere on the menu – such as juicy, roasted pork belly and sautéed mushrooms. Wines on the drinks list are predominantly Australian, the rest is made up of a simple selection of cocktails and house-made sodas. The house pour is Noi Lager – a special ale by Mountain Goat brewery.

The sun-filled atrium, complete with bubbling pond and market garden, is a retro counterpoint to the clean, modern interiors, and it helps insulate diners from the busy roadway beyond. It also provides herbs and ingredients used in many of the dishes on the menu.