Herringbone is by Peel St co-owner Ben McLeod and former Stone’s Throw head chef Quentin Whittle, and manager Paul Tripodi. Individually the trio’s reputations precede them. But Herringbone is its own beast entirely.

Starters might include torched prawn crudo; chicken liver parfait spiced with Sichuan pepper; and citrus-cured ocean trout. For something bigger, you might get slow-roasted lamb shoulder with smoky eggplant; buttered spätzle with cotechino sausage; or roasted cauliflower with mejadra (a Levantine dish of lentils, rice and onion) and hummus.

Of around 30 wines most are local. A climate-controlled wine cabinet holds potential for a back-vintage wine list.

There is on-street seating, and inside a white-walled dining room complete with a feature herringbone-tiled bar, which overflows into a bright atrium with a ceiling-height tree at its centre.