The crew behind The Golden Wattle has some serious experience behind it.

Long-time publican Damien Kelly and barman Tom Byrnes from The Hotel Metropolitan have partnered with David Blumberg from The Exeter, Josh Phillips from Magill Estate Kitchen, Pete Curtis from The Port Admiral and Ben Quici from Midnight Spaghetti.

The idea behind this venue is that a 21-year-old can feel comfortable standing next to the three-breasted-suit lawyer; it’s inclusive and welcoming.

The site was formerly The Office on Pirie Street, but its identity now is a far cry from the Hahn Super Dry banner once plastered across the awning.

The massive, 400-capacity interior has been gutted, save for the original sprawling bar, which will pour a succinct selection of approachable beer and wine. And the venue has retained six of its pokies machines in a discreet, walled-off area.

An upstairs mezzanine features an intimate second bar, DJ booth and more seating. A centerpiece of the open kitchen is the wood grill, sourced from Gumtree. Cooked on it is classic pub fare – gussied up – such as steak, chicken wings, charred pumpkin, and fritz and sauce sandwiches. In each dish at least one of the ingredients gets a touch of smoke, or a little time over the red gum, for a little charcoal flavour.

Breakfast includes the usual staples as well as rice noodles with chicken broth, egg and Asian greens; and coconut rice pudding with seasonal fruit, candied grains and seeds.