Walk through the bustling tourists and past the reception of The Hilton Hotel and you’ll find an instant change of atmosphere. The Coal Cellar Grill has previously hosted star chefs Cheong Lieu and Simon Bryant.

Executive chef Daniel Fleming mostly concerns himself with classic European-style mains, but reaches for the odd Asian flavour where necessary. See: natural oysters with spicy nahm jim dressing, or char sui pork belly with Asian slaw.

As the name implies, though, big hunks of meat are the main game here. Dip a toe in with a Black Angus strip loin with celeriac cream, or dive headfirst with a two-kilogram, $159 T-bone with onion rings, Sriracha and lime aioli. Elsewhere there are pastas, fish and simple sides of veggies.

The carefully lit space is filled with leather, marble and rich wood tones, mimicking the menu in its mixture of classic and modern. The sense of laid-back luxury extends to the 500-label wine list housed in the central glass cellar, and the chefs darting back and forth in the spotless open-plan kitchen.

The restaurant hosts visitors seeking a variety of experiences, whether it’s a casual drink at the bar or a three-course meal paired with wine. Whatever your preference, the hotel lobby and tourist hub outside will feel like a world away.

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Updated: June 7th, 2017

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