Picoso, which means “spicy” in Spanish, sits confidently between casual cantina and refined diner, bringing its own heat and personality to the neighbourhood.

The menu is full of carefully crafted and layered dishes. It moves through small plates – think citrus-cured ceviche blanco, SA prawns in aguachile verde, smoked cod roe with chicharron, charred elote with chipotle mayo – into tacos and larger dishes.

The drinks list celebrates the Margarita in all its forms: shaken or frozen, Tommy-style, coconut-infused or garnished with spicy pineapple with jalapenos and tajin. But for the Marg-avoidant, there are also cocktail classics, local and Mexican beers and a well-considered edit of local wines.

The fit-out of the art deco building – led by Simone Eichler of Coda Design – draws on the warm desert and sunset tones of Mexico: earthy oranges, deep reds, dusty-rose walls and bold checks throughout.