Schnitzel, Nonna’s minestrone and a kilo of Goolwa cockles are some of the additions to Blackwood’s winter menu. It’s hardly the fine-dining spread Blackwood chef Jock Zonfrillo presents upstairs at his restaurant Orana. Which, he says, is the point.
“People assume Blackwood is a mini Orana,” Zonfrillo says. “It’s not. There’s nothing more dumbed down than a schnitzel. It’s not a beef or chicken parma, it’s a prawn schnitty, but it’s a schnitty nevertheless.”
Since opening the bistro-style restaurant in the space formerly home to Street ADL, the Scottish-born chef has worked hard to shift the assumption that everything he touches is pricey. Zonfrillo is globally acclaimed for using native Australian ingredients and highlighting Indigenous culture and knowledge.
"Yes, we use [native] ingredients, same as before with Street ADL, and the flavours are still there,’ he says. “We just don’t talk about it as much. At the end of the day, it’s a bistro so you can expect to find familiar food.”
The addition of brunch on weekends is also aimed at a more casual crowd. The menu includes bacon, eggs, sausage, avocado and mushrooms with toast, semolina porridge, granola, and toasted sausage and egg damper. “It’s an easy place to have coffee, brunch and catch up with friends. Like a bistro should be,” Zonfrillo says.
The menu will change based on his “boredom levels” and availability of ingredients. “There are some things that have been on the menu since the day we opened. Others change rapidly; sometimes they’re on for a week, sometimes a month.”
Blackwood does not offer a tasting-menu option. “Bistros are meant to be there so you can come in and have a glass of wine, a beer or cider and a plate of food. You don’t need to come for a grand event,” Zonfrillo says. The wine list is 100 per cent natural, and Krug, which is part of the Orana offering, is available downstairs at $45 a glass.
Whether patrons splash out on booze or not, Zonfrillo wants the restaurant to feel accessible. “I cook the minestrone at home for my kids,” he says. “We have pesto and a loaf of bread thrown on the table. The kind of thing that is welcoming, warm, friendly and approachable. That’s what a bistro is about.”
285 Rundle Street, Adelaide
(08) 8227 0344
Mon to Fri 12pm–3pm, 5.30pm–11pm
Sat & Sun 8am–3pm, 5.30pm–11pm