“There’s no holds being barred,” says Jake Smyth. “It’ll be a full-on attack.”

It sounds like some kind of world-war frontline, but the chef and co-owner of Sydney burger joint Mary’s is actually referring to a night out with Africola’s Duncan Welgemoed.

The Jack Ruby takeover on July 4 will feature burgers, booze, live punk, metal bands and plenty of “raucous” fun. It was originally meant to happen at Africola. “The venue changed because I don’t want Jake fucking my joint up,” Welgemoed says, laughing.

Jack Ruby’s underground location is similar to the Newtown joint’s “dive bar” atmosphere. “Mary’s is brutal,” says Welgemoed. “It’s probably my favourite venue in Australia. It’s super fun, it’s dark, it’s dingy, and it’s loose as hell.”

The Mary’s team will also be at the Adelaide Beer & BBQ Festival from July 8 to 10. “We like to have fun at the expense of other people,” Smyth says. “The music is really loud at our stall and staff will get a bit drunk towards the end when the wheels start coming off.”

The team is looking forward to the change of scenery. "The beer and barbecue festival sounds awesome. We get to sit next to Young Henrys with Duncan running around like a chicken with his head cut off.”

South Australia is written all over Mary’s wine offering. “We’ve fostered a really beautiful relationship with a lot of the winemakers in your part of the world,” Smyth says. “Tommy Shobbrook does our house white and house red, we’ve had the pub juice [at The Unicorn, Sydney] done by James Erskine down at Jauma (Adelaide Hills) and Taras Ochota released When Everything Went Black at Mary’s. He’ll make another one for us this year if he’s got some juice lying around.”

Whyte says there’s an affinity among the “crazy” Basket Range wine crew, Newtown and Adelaide’s not-so traditional dining scene. “We all get on really well and see the world through the same kind of lenses; sort of anti-establishment. We’re not from the CBD, we’re not eastern suburbs, we’re not cool kids, we’re from the wrong side of the tracks, and Adelaide sort of has that vibe about it as well.”

As for the burgers, they’re about balancing soft, sweet buns with quality grass-fed beef and fat, American cheese, and adding condiments with the right acidity. “My Instagram feed is clogged with these horrible cheesy, over-the-top Frankenburgers,” Smyth says. “That’s not what it’s about. A beautiful cheeseburger is a thing of beauty if you can nail it.”

The Adelaide Beer & BBQ Festival is on at the Brick Cattle Pavilion and lawns, Adelaide Showground on July 8–10. Keep an eye on Africola’s Facebook page for further details about the Mary's takeover.

adelaidebeerfest.com.au
facebook.com/africoladopchop