Where Chefs Eat: Terry Intarakhamhaeng’s Favourite Date Night Spot Is an Unsung European Bistro

We consider working in a restaurant to be a high-stress, high-octane environment. I mean, we’ve all seen The Bear. So it’s surprising to learn that chef Terry Intarakhamhaeng was once a Buddhist monk.

The Thai Australian chef came through the ranks cooking under Jock Zonfrillo and working in his seminal restaurant Orana.

Intarakhamhaeng opened his own Thai restaurant Soi 38 in 2014. Since then, it’s become a staple on the local food scene. The Thai Guy joined the line-up last year.

Broadsheet caught up with Intarakhamhaeng to find out where (and what) he eats in Adelaide.

What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway?
I don’t eat much takeaway, so when I do, it has to be good. Ying Chow is worth the short drive to Gouger Street. It’s the best Chinese in Adelaide. My order always includes vinegar ribs, tea-smoked duck and special fried rice with salted fish.

And for a drink and snacks?
Monica. I actually went there twice in one night. After a short bar hop, I ended up back there for the rest of the night because I really liked the welcoming staff and interesting range of spirits.

And what about the best food close to where you live?
Half Hafu is on my block, walking distance from my house. They do great sashimi there.

If it’s a special occasion, where are you headed?
Topiary is my choice. The garden surroundings are so peaceful and quiet. It’s great to see their creative use of seasonal produce.

Where do you go for a long lunch?
A great spot for lunch is Parwana. I love bold flavours and their execution is great, time and time again. I love their banjaan borani (eggplant) and karayee gosfand (lamb).

Who do you think does the best coffee in town?
Another place right on my block is Cheeky Grin. I’m fussy with my coffee, and I can always trust their consistency. They have worked so hard to make a hub for the community. My go-to is a soy latte or long black.

How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
The long table at Anchovy Bandit is the spot to go. They have something to please everyone. My kids love the macaroni and pepperoni pizza, which leaves me to enjoy some more of their complex plates.

Who do you think makes the best desserts?
I haven’t got a sweet tooth, but I really appreciated the crème caramel I had recently at Ondeen. I believe I heard Kane [Pollard] say he’s not much of a sweet tooth either, and I was impressed with the complexity, with subtle sweetness and smoky flavours.

What’s your favourite dish on the menu at your restaurant?
My favourites tend to be the dishes I grew up eating. Jackfruit stir-fry reminds me of home.

Is there a hidden gem that you think is underrated but great?
Just down the road from us is Longplay Bistro. I’m not sure if they are hidden, but I also don’t think they get enough spotlight. It serves beautifully thought-out dishes that are well executed, and attentive service. For me, the highlights are the chicken liver parfait and ox tongue.

Tell us about a local producer you can’t stop thinking about.
Since my time at Orana , I have always tried to incorporate native ingredients into my food, so Something Wild is at the top of my list. They have access to some really interesting produce, and I find it rewarding to be able to incorporate the ingredients found here in Australia into the food from my homeland.

Where would you take someone you’re looking to impress?
There’s only one person I’m trying to impress, and that’s my partner. When we want a special date night, it’s Longplay Bistro. We usually order a perfectly cooked steak.

What’s your favourite spot for a late-night feed?
Ding Hao is where I end up after service with my staff. It’s another great Chinese spot and it’s open late enough for us to have time to relax and wind down. We order the dumplings and salt and pepper squid.

@terryint
@soi.38
@thethaiguy.adl