Welcome to the Club: Serbian Soul, Spirits and Cevapcici Reign Supreme in Hindmarsh

When Adelaide United Football Club plays a home game in Hindmarsh, there’s only one place to be: the RGK Serbian Social Club.

“That’s when we sell $8 cevapcici rolls under our pergola,” says club volunteer Mara Tepavcevic. “We’re called the Chevap Queens and we serve three cevapcici, caramelised onion, cabbage salad, and all the sauces you want for eight bucks. People come here two hours before the game for beer, a meal, and a bit of relaxation; families, kids, everyone. It’s so much fun. We also have a crepe van run by the Serbian priest.”

The club was established in 1950 but has undergone significant renovations over the years, the most recent of which was in 2017.

These days, the cavernous space opens to the public every Friday night, serving a largely traditional menu prepared by gentle giant Migo Jankovic.

“Every Friday there’s a special,” Mara says. “This week it’s sarma (cabbage rolls), a meal that a lot of people have at home for Slava or for family functions.”

The medley of rice, mince, paprika, pepper and onion wrapped in cabbage is served with creamy mashed potato. It’s simple, comforting, unforgettable – and at $20 for two big sarmas and sides, it’s also great value.

Other homeland hits dished up on Fridays include pig on a spit, podvarak i meso (sauerkraut with smoky meat), and punjena pljeskavica (a spiced, grilled meat burger stuffed with cheese). “The burger tastes like cevapcici but in patty form,” Mara says.

Everyone here feels like family. Social club president Alex Tepavcevic (Mara’s husband) greets regulars with bear hugs and affectionate back slaps. I’ve only been here half an hour and I’ve already been embraced by many beaming strangers.

“What defines Serbian culture? We are devoted to family,” Alex says. “That’s where everything starts. We’re also very much involved with the community; school groups and children’s charity events in our function hall.”

RGK means Ravna Gora Klub. Ravna Gora refers to the birthplace of the Serbian Chetnik movement during World War II.

“I call us ‘RGK, the Serbian club for everyone’,” Alex says. “We have a very broad following and we get different people in here every week. It’s important to open up to all sorts of people because we can’t survive without them.”
The Serbian community in South Australia is relatively small, with many families migrating to Australia after 1945. “Some came after they were released from refugee camps around Europe after World War II,” says Alex.

In Alex’s case, his parents moved to Australia in the early 1970s.

“They met in Austria,” he says. “Dad was a bit of a lad about town and a ladies’ man. On the day they met, he started putting the charms on Mum, and she spat at him. Two weeks later, they ran away together and eloped. Dad died on their 45th wedding anniversary.”

Meanwhile, Mara’s parents met at the church adjacent to the club. Her father arrived in Adelaide in the late 1940s, while her mum migrated to Australia solo when she was just 18. “She couldn’t speak a word of English when she got here,” Mara says. “They’ve both passed away, so this is a very sentimental and special place to me.”

Stories of love, loss, adversity, tenacity and hope permeate the RGK. A memory wall dotted with framed photographs provides a reminder of loved ones, some long gone.

It’s not essential to be Serbian, however, to feel part of the community. “One local couple has date night here once a month,” Mara says. “They play our pinball machine and video games, then eat the special of the night.”

Other young families visit weekly to make the most of the eight-ball table, while others settle back in black booth seating, gossiping over chocolate-filled crepes. Friday nights coinciding with major concerts at the nearby Adelaide Entertainment Centre are particularly busy.

“It’s hard work,” Mara says. “We all have full-time day jobs, so when we finish work on Fridays we race down here. Everyone helps each other out.”

Serbian beer, wine and spirits are poured by bar manager Nikola Marjanovic, including three types of rakija brandy: walnut, apricot or sweet honey. As the night rolls on, viscous Serbian coffee appears with a side of drama.

“There’s a lady here who does fortune telling based on your coffee grounds,” says club treasurer Suzi Kilibarda, before asking, “Want me to find her for you?”

I decline because there’s more rakija shots to drink with new friends and, besides, I don’t need coffee dregs to tell me I’ll be back as soon as possible.

RGK Serbian Social Club is open to the public on Fridays from 6pm, for dine in and takeaway.

RGK Serbian Social Club
1–3 Mary Street, Hindmarsh
0402408088

@serbiansocialclubhindmarsh