When Broadsheet visits Diaspora Kouzina – a newly opened Greek eatery on Pulteney Street – we’re met with an impromptu coffee masterclass.
Co-owner Peter Louca introduces himself as a “floater”. Unlike his business partners, chef Katerina Nikou and front-of-house manager Angela Papas, he helps wherever he’s needed. Today, he’s schooling us on traditional Greek iced coffee.
First up is a frappé, made with instant coffee. Louca imports a specific kind of Nescafe (spray-dried, not freeze-dried) from Greece. It’s mixed with cold water, then whizzed in a milkshake maker. “Then you tip the cup upside down – that’s how you know you’ve made it correctly,” Louca says, and demonstrates. The foamy liquid holds firm. He adds ice, water and a dash of milk, saying we’re not ready to take it sketo (without milk) just yet. It’s light, smooth and sweet.
A freddo is a long espresso shot served on ice. For a “freddo cappuccino” evaporated milk is added and it’s topped with cinnamon.
Diaspora also serves familiar espresso beverages, made using a white and timber Modbar machine – one of the most capable (and expensive) pieces of coffee equipment available. “It’s probably worth more than my car,” says Louca.
Diaspora is a term for those who have settled away from their homeland. Louca’s serving the food his community was raised on, and relishes sharing. It’s preserving a legacy. “Our parents aren’t going to be around forever,” Louca says. “A lot of the food that they make … we didn’t want it to die off when they pass.”
For breakfast there’s a buttermilk pancake with halva ice-cream, baked eggs with gigantes (white bean) puree, and compressed watermelon with Greek-yoghurt sorbet and lemon verbena. Or opt for eggs on toast with sides such as loukaniko (pork sausage), saganaki (fried cheese) or even a lamb cutlet. Avocado is (courageously) absent.
For lunch there’s a vegetarian take on keftedes (meat balls) with asparagus, snow peas, hazelnut and yoghurt, grilled sardines with squished grapes, and more.
The fridge holds hulking slabs of oven-baked dishes and fresh salads – for dine in or to take away – as well as delicate pastries and biscuits. Expect Greek staples such as spanakopita, mousakka and pastitsio (a baked pasta dish). Everything is made in house.
Diaspora stands in a former tailor’s shop. The palette is mainly red brick, cement and marble, save for a preserved moss wall made in Denmark. Neighbours Love Concrete created the outdoor table and worked on the floor.
250 Pulteney Street, Adelaide
(08) 8232 5753
Mon to Fri 6.30am–5.00pm
Sat to Sun 7.30am–4.30pm