It’s a homecoming of sorts for the team who launched the Low & Slow brand four years ago as a food truck in the CBD – its smoky barbequed meats drawing city workers from near and far to Victoria and Hindmarsh squares.
“It’s been in the back of our minds – having a city-daytime location – because that’s how we started,” says Angus Kiley, who owns Low & Slow with Jim Morrison and Angus Henderson. “We got a pretty loyal customer base back in the day, so we always knew the audience was there. But we’re not interested in replicating exactly what we’ve got at Port Adelaide – we know it’s one-of-a-kind.”
When Broadsheet meets the team on a sweaty Monday afternoon, they’ve just picked up the keys. The new site adds a fourth partner to the mix – Keven Stockmann – who has been cooking at Low & Slow since its food truck days but will now officially join the fold as owner-operator, running the deli day to day.
Stockmann, who was born in California, is a French-trained chef with a background in fine dining. “I had to seek out a place I could still cook but enjoy myself,” he says of his switch to barbeque.
Low & Slow's crowd-pulling menu features a selection of meat, seasoned and smoked for up to 18 hours in its Port Adelaide kitchen. Given the new site’s tiny footprint, the meats will still be prepared at the original site and brought over each day. “Due to our history with catering we have a pretty good idea of how it travels,” says Kiley. “How you rest a brisket and most rubbed meats is inside of an esky, so we’ll be doing the exact same thing but while it’s transported,” adds Stockmann.
“We’ll be serving pretty similar meats to Port Adelaide but we’ll do a lot more salads, pickles, a few extra sauces as well,” he says. Expect Low & Slow's beef brisket, pulled pork and more stuffed into sandwiches or served with fresh salad, plus a few favourite sides such as mac’n’cheese and apple slaw. There’ll be a few new additions, too.
“There’ll be more flexibility,” says Morrison. “The restaurant is strictly Texas barbeque, so there’s not much room to budge, but at the deli we’ll have some freedom.”
“It’ll still be heavily American-barbeque-inspired,” adds Stockmann. “But you don’t want to be bringing in a big ol’ stinky plate of barbeque to the office – we get that. I’m sure there’ll still be people doing that. But there’ll be some nice fresh stuff as well.”
As for the drinks, there won’t be booze or coffee: Stockmann wants to introduce American-style iced tea. “In American restaurants you get a massive glass of ice tea either sweetened or unsweetened. It’s delicious, it’s fresh, it’s really good. I’ve been missing it for a long time so I’m really keen to drink that on the daily again.”
Low & Slow Leigh Street will open in February.