When Yuin man Dominic Smith looks out over his aquaponic farm on Ngawait country in South Australia’s Riverland region, he sees potential.
“At first glance, it looks like nothing, only because everything in nature blends in,” Smith tells Broadsheet. Look closer and organic native botanicals appear like a Magic Eye print. “I’ve got about 5,000 wattle trees growing out there, plus native thyme, emu bush, quandongs, aquaponic tables full of river mint,” he says. There’s also saltbush, lemon myrtle, warrigal (native spinach), bush tomatoes, and when the season is right, a kaleidoscope of native flowers.
Smith calls his 17-hectare regenerative property Pundi Produce. Pundi (pronounced pun-thee) is the Ngarrindjeri term for hopping mouse. “They are a small but integral part of the environment, and like the hopping mouse, we started small – and from little things, big things will grow.”
Pundi provides produce for local artisanal food suppliers and large multinational companies alike, but the latest feather in Smith’s wide-brimmed hat is Pundi Bitters. It’s a range of three aromatic bitters, each of which spotlights Indigenous botanicals. Leaves is a combination of river mint and finger lime; Wood is earthy, with wattleseed and smoked wood; and Fruit is a sweeter mix of rosella and quandong.
Created with help from Rose Kentish from Full Circle Spirits, the bitters can be used in cocktails, added to mineral water, or used in cooking. It's currently being used in cocktails at Kane Pollard's Ondeen.
When the quietly spoken farmer tends the land, his three children often lend a hand, planting new native ingredients with which to experiment. As he works alongside them, Smith is reminded of his childhood in Townsville: exploring fields of sugarcane, chasing tadpoles and searching for fish and mud crabs with his uncle in croc-infested waters.
Smith plans to use his farm as a platform for empowerment and education, using the land as a training ground for the often-overlooked children of the Riverland. They will learn agricultural and cooking skills and learn about sustainable farming practices while fostering a connection to country.
“I've got a vision to create programs for young men, especially those trying to stem drug and alcohol use. We’re going to employ people who come from a low socio-economic place,” he says. “You have purpose when you care about something other than yourself. Animal therapy, nature therapy … Farm life slows you down.”
