Sukhumvit Soi 38
Sukhumvit Soi 38's identity was previously equated with its yellow and black colour scheme. But owners Daisy Miller and husband and chef Terry Intarakhamhaeng decided the food deserved to be represented by a sleeker interior. So in 2018 the Pulteney Street restaurant got a refurb by Crafty Design. Now the slimline space is almost unrecognisable from its former self.
A calming two-tone paint job – half buckwheat, half white – flows down to neutral-coloured tiles. Suspended above simple timber furniture, rooster cages handcrafted in Thailand serve as light fixtures. The tableware (sourced primarily across Southeast Asia) adds hints of pale blue, grey and white.
While Sukhumvit Soi 38 takes its name from Bangkok’s famous street-food market, Intarakhamhaeng’s menu zooms in on Thailand’s six regions. Much like a wine list, each dish’s region of origin is listed below it. And unlike a Westernised banquet menu, each region’s snacks, salads and mains arrive at the table (and are meant to be enjoyed) together, in one course. Matched wines align with the region’s main flavour profile.
Intarakhamhaeng’s masters in environmental sustainability comes through in the menu. Two southern-style dishes reduce the restaurant’s reliance on farmed meat: there’s a goat curry with betel leaf, and a take on oxtail curry that subs in an eight-hour-cooked kangaroo tail.
But there is also the usual pad thai and green curry, although the spring rolls are stuffed – quite fancily – with lobster.