Bai Long Store is a riddle. Physically and figuratively it’s an abstraction revealed to guests over the course of a visit. It’s ambitious, at times theatrical, modish and from good stock. And it issues a challenge to its neighbours along the ailing Hutt Street strip.

Conceived by the minds behind Gin Long Canteen, Concubine and Myth and raised by Studio-Gram, it’s a restaurant serving modern Asian cuisine. The focus is on Chinese, Korean and Japanese dishes and doors are open from morning until night.

The breakfast and brunch menus are primarily vegetarian, with the option to add protein. At dinner there are two completely separate lists; vegetarian and not.

The drinks list features six teas sourced exclusively by Master Foo, a traditional Taiwanese tea master. One of the venue’s partners met Master Foo and travelled to the mountains of Taiwan to study under him, learning the ceremonial service rituals enacted at Bai Long Store.

The “store” element is Bai Long’s homemade and private-label products: tea, dry noodles, granola, takeaway snacks and more. There will also be a grab-and-go counter, stocked for lunch service.