Standing in what once was a Flight Centre outlet, Udaberri does a better job at evoking wanderlust than a discounted airfare ever could. Inspired by time spent in San Sebastian, it achieves a casual Spanish atmosphere, with the gentle sounds of Miles Davis adding to the appeal.

Get comfortable and sit down for a good read with the drinks list, which includes no less than 20 variations of the gin and tonic, Udaberri’s specialty. There’s Tanqueray No. Ten served with dried grapefruit, chamomile and Fever Tree tonic, or The Botanist gin served with marmalade and dehydrated apple.

The wine list is no less comprehensive, with five pages ranging from a local glass of McLaren Vale Grenache to Louis Roederer Cristal. Beers, ciders and sherry are handled with equal depth and you can even get an espresso martini made to the Savoy’s original recipe.

To eat, there’s a range of pintxos and French-influenced small plates including oysters shucked to order and served with champagne vinegar; beef tartare; and a selection of French and Iberian cheeses, each with its own poetic and detailed description. In more ways than one, Udaberri has the depth and richness of a cellar.

Thankfully, this is echoed in the extensive knowledge of the staff and the respect shown to each product.