Dolly is a slick, laid-back spot to kick back with a well-made drink, by the team behind inner-east neighbourhood wine bar Lune.
Perch up at the swanky concrete bar in the middle of the room, or take a seat at one of the tables flanking the walls and windows. Order house creations like The Parton (a nod to the bar’s musical namesake featuring gin, elderflower, chartreuse, apple and lemon); Golden Hour (with gin, lillet, apricot jam, lemon, honey and orange bitters); a Coconut Mint Margarita (tequila, triple sec, coconut, mint and lime); and Pandanic (pandan-infused white rum, macadamia, pineapple, cucumber, lime and sesame).
There’s also an approachable wine list, favouring local drops from producers such as Yangarra, Harrison, Hills Collide and Mazi, which is Dolly co-owner Toby Porter’s label (Josh De Haas, Brett Hicks-Maitland, Tony Bales, Jordan Schmidt, James Bills and Hamish Brown round out the partnership).
Despite the drinks focus, the food is no afterthought. The snacky menu might include oysters with mignonette and Champagne granita; crab soldiers with chilli crisp and shaved bottarga; taramasalata with waffle, roe and nori; and kangaroo tartare with saltbush, black garlic and peas. Those with a bigger appetite might order a grilled cheese sandwich with mushroom and Vegemite; buttermilk-fried quail with hot sauce and pickled daikon; steamed zucchini flowers with spaetzle, ricotta and honey; and crispy pig’s head with pear, witlof and sorrel.
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