The lower side of Devonshire Street in Surry Hills is, for the most part, a fairly unassuming food trawl. Devonshire has never been a place to find design-focused cafes, with slick branding, all-organic produce or finely roasted coffee. Well, things have changed.
The aptly named Devon Cafe has brightened a perpetually greyish scene, opening three weeks ago on that Surry Hills slope that folds downwards towards Central Station. Beechwood is a dramatic feature of the space, with tables, stools, walls and light fixtures all crafted from the warm-hued timber. A black corridor guides diners to a sunny courtyard with an entire wall of growing herbs.
Smart design aside, the menu at Devon is impressive and thankfully does not include any manufactured sandwich meats. Former Bistro Guillaume sous chef Zacharay Tan and Guillaume at Bennelong graduate Jacqui Ektoros have blended a casual cafe with quality dining, offering chalk board sandwich and salad specials alongside black rice pudding, eggs sous-vide and citrus-cured salmon. Coffee is sourced from Perth-based 5 Senses and there’s also a display of baked goods (all made onsite) as well as loaves of bread from Victoire Bakery.