When Barry McDonald’s Fratelli Fresh burst onto the Sydney food scene in 2004, it was exactly what the city needed: a sleek, industrial space housing fresh fruit, vegies and Italian grocery imports. Suddenly, that ubiquitous white cupboard box was everywhere and it didn’t take long before McDonald’s vision was extended further with the opening of Café Sopra. With the inimitable Andy Bunn at the helm, it quickly garnered a reputation for produce-led, modern Italian cuisine.

Ever so slowly, the empire started creeping into high density, inner city suburbs such as Potts Point and the CBD. It’s Walsh Bay, however, that is most appreciated by theatregoers and increasing numbers of residents alike.

Fortunately, Bunn’s departure in 2011 hasn’t left too big a hole, and the food is still Italian, simple and seasonal. An absence of printed menus allows for changeable blackboard of specials. Perennial favourites, however, seem to be lightly fried zucchini flowers, goats curd frittata and fresh pasta dishes.

A no bookings policy seems slightly short-sighted given its proximity to the theatre precinct, but rest assured, this place moves quickly.