aking everything they possibly can in-house (including the sourdough), The Hill Eatery is an impressive cafe. It’s a deft breakfast menu, with the team throwing out only eight options, but all of them strong contenders for any appetite. The baked eggs top a bed of chorizo and are unsurprisingly comforting, while the breakfast grazing board might be better described as an amped-up breakfast mezze. With its bounty of toast, poached eggs, feta, avocado, cured meats, tomato and basil salsa and preserves, it wouldn't be a terrible idea to share it with a ravenous friend.
The King George whiting served with a fried egg and beurre blanc is wonderful and lemony. Chef Sam Smith, whose nearby Porch & Parlour has made him no foreigner to the breakfast pans, explains that it’s a dish inspired by early memories of fishing: “After catching a few [fish], granddad would fillet them and cook them on the barbecue. He’d then serve them with fresh white bread, butter and lemon – granddad didn’t know what beurre blanc was”.
The tea list is about as detailed as you’ll ever see on a breakfast menu, with instructions like “Infuse at 95 degrees for one minute up to five times” noted beneath some of the black teas. But the coffee-inclined might be interested to know the Will & Co roast comes courtesy of the founders of Batlow Cider.
The Hill Eatery ethos remains, even with the new early hours. It’s seasonal, unfussy, farm-to-table fare. Seaside breakfasts are difficult to fault under most circumstances, but The Hill still manages to step it up a notch, and makes it well worth the climb towards North Bondi.
The Hill Eatery
Shop 5, 39-53 Campbell Parade, North Bondi
(02) 9130 2200
Mon to Wed 6pm–11pm
Thurs & Fri 11am–11pm
Sat & Sun 7am–11pm