Japanese beer occupies a special space in our consciousness: one that is reserved for the assumption of quality. That may sound a little like a backhanded compliment but when Japan does something they do it right, and while the major league players like Asahi and Sapporo may entertain the proles with their crisp, dry taste and clean, fresh finishes, sometimes you just want more.

The house beer at Nohonshu is Tanuki, brewed locally to keep a lid on quality; it’s a good place to start, but if you want a drink fresher than a Jun Takahashi sweatshirt you’ll be after some of the imported Japanese beers that don’t get much play outside of Tokyo.

The same goes for the ridiculously extensive sake selection that’s ready to test the most discerning of palates. But the real secret of Nihonshu is that it manages to be cool without falling for the irresistible, but short term, charms of hipness.

Plus there’s an ‘air-blade’ in the bathroom that delivers a total arm dryness rarely experienced or achieved outside of an airport.