With its wide plate glass windows looking onto High Street and its cavernous interior, it’s no surprise that the space that once housed Chowhound has been hungrily snapped up by a promising team with some serious hospitality credentials.

Owners Jessica Fitzgerald and Ben Sanders have teamed up with head chef Jono Mackie to create Two by Two, an understated restaurant that aims to showcase high-quality, seasonal produce without the excessive price tag.

Two by Two serves breakfast and lunch from Tuesday to Sunday, and dinner from Thursday to Saturday. Breakfasts range from granola, pancakes and house-cured salmon, to bacon and eggs or roasted field mushrooms.

The stakes are raised at lunch and dinner. Expect smears, crumbs and foams, with a menu consisting of big and small plates designed to share. Small plates include an elegant asparagus salad with white anchovies; chickpea chips; and pan-fried scallops with black pudding. Ranger Valley beef or barramundi will satisfy larger appetites, and nothing on the menu exceeds $30.

Wines are served by the bottle and the glass, while there’s a selection of local and imported beers as well as five different ciders, which will go down a treat in summer.

Two By Two

235 High Street Northcote

(03) 9486 5885

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