In winter, this quaint little restaurant heats up with the steam of curry and rice. The windows fog up as the waiters buzz around, delivering beef noodles and spring rolls to tables filled with eagerly awaiting patrons.

Cheap and casual, Tom Toon is not about décor and style. It’s an in-and-out sort of place, with tables squeezed into a cosy dining room and fairy lights in the front window. The diner’s focus is deservedly steered toward honest, delicious, affordable fare.

With perfectly balanced flavours and variety that transcends tom yum soup, old favourites are complimented by dishes like fermented pork sausage, which arrives with a sour fish sauce and crispy lettuce. Should you choose to play it safe, the pad thai is excellent. Expect a plate heaped with sticky noodles, fresh prawns, spice and citrus. This is as close as it gets to slurping noodles from street vendors on Khao San Road.

The waiters are friendly and will happily accommodate your personal spice tolerance. With food that’s fresh and reasonably priced, Tom Toon is up there with some of the best Thai in Melbourne.