Mark Best, of Marque in Surry Hills, Sydney, is one of the most highly regarded chefs in the country. Lured to Melbourne by the boys from the MoVida Group, Peter Bartholomew and David Mackintosh, he opened Pei Modern, a produce-oriented bistro with a menu built on market fresh, seasonal ingredients. Located in Collins PLace at the top end of the city Best has created a top-notch modern restaurant that teeters between formal and not, with a playful space and a serious approach to food.

Helen Rice of Rice Design Studio has designed the interior of the former post office. Rice wanted the interior made visitors feel like it had always been there, and recalls images of seventies West coast America with lots of timbers, stone, marble and glass.

The manager and sommelier is front-of-house pro Ainslie Lubbock, who has managed Attica and The Royal Mail in Dunkeld among others. The wine list here at Pei Modern has a fresh, natural feel and typically suits the style of the food.

Pei Modern is open daily, has a bar area that's open all day and won't let you book and a dining room that's open for lunch and dinner where you probably should.