Echoing it’s flagship siblings in Sydney, and focusing on the flavours that earned it’s reputation, Misschu Melbourne has a spotlight on rice paper rolls and Vietnamese specialties. The pocket-sized eatery saw the woman behind the name, Nahji Chu, returning to her Melbourne roots and bringing her tuckshop flair with her.

The space is a more streamlined version of the weathered Sydney original, with candy stripe awnings lining the kitchen view, minimalist blond wood seating and cool green-tiles making room for a huge mural. But the focus is on the compact rice-paper-roll, dumpling and vermicelli salad menu. Favourites are traditional Peking duck pancakes, satay chicken and young coconut rice-paper rolls and BBQ pork char sui buns – but don’t skip the refreshing slushie, frozen young coconut juice, blended with lychees and mint, for a cupful of freshness.

Chu herself moves her energetic presence between Sydney and Melbourne, and you can always sense the excitement when she’s in the house either here or in the South Yarra store.

Line up for a lunchtime tuckshop take-away, order in advance with an order form or cosy-up at one of the intimate tables and decide for yourself whether her title, "queen in rice-paper rolls", is warranted.