At the top end of Little Bourke Street, past the lucky cats of Chinatown, there’s a breezy slice of Italy. In early 2010 Oyster Little Bourke revamped and flung its doors open with a new lease on life and a clear new direction as Mezzo Bar and Grill. And with a distinctly Sicilian leaning, it’s easy to get lost in the up-market details as you settle in.

The beautiful marble bar remains from Oyster days, politely dividing street seating from restaurant space, while pendulous blood-red lampshades sway above diners and a sprawling image of Sicilian-esque rooftops dominates one wall. But finer details also catch the eye: an array of antique chestnut roasting pans and kitchenalia line a column, there’s a lovely glass-walled wine room, and a tall, dark-wood stool by the bar is as welcoming a seat as any.

Chef and co-owner Joseph Vargetto has a chance to showcase his heritage in the traditional Sicilian sharing menu (offering two to four courses). But if you’re after something lighter, the bar-menu, a coffee or a glass of Italian wine might fit the bill before a short dash to the theatre.