Originally the province of pizzaiola Pietro Barbagallo, I Carusi might have changed hands, but it hasn’t lost heart. Having built up a stellar following in the early days (and retained them in the cross over) this relaxed pizzeria prides itself on turning out the very best of simple pizzas, served quick, crisp and fragrant with quality toppings. The only trouble is choosing which ones.

Snuggled in amongst the rough frontages and warehouses of East Brunswick, there are about 30 different pizza topping combinations on offer. But the key to the flavours is a ‘less-is-more’ rule, with the pizzas averaging around four distinct flavours in any mix – all working perfectly together. The front room is where it all happens, with pizza-making on display and the huge oven turning out molten-cheese topped, puffy-edged dough platters at a cracking pace. With downplayed ambiance and an almost sparse decor, the show and the flavours that are what you come here for.

You’re always best to book, but it’s not unheard of for a small group walk-in to be accommodated. And amongst the banter and chatter of people relaxing after a hard day, it’s impossible not to feel the soothing balm of a pizza, beer and good company.