After proving his chops as a master chef at the Press Club, George Calombaris opened this cheerful, modern Greek tavern in the sleepy end of Lygon Street. Hellenic Republic has earned a devoted following with its honest food and bright, friendly staff. The aim here is not to deconstruct or reinterpret classic Greek dishes but simply to revamp their image, presenting them with clean flavours, high-quality produce and a slightly refined edge.

Hellenic Republic is ideal for group dining with the entire menu designed to be shared, allowing for a wider sampling of all that’s on offer. At first glance this huge menu can be somewhat baffling, but thankfully set menu options are available and are good value, though you should expect to leave feeling uncomfortably full. Be sure to pick something off the spit roasting in the outdoor courtyard and try the deceptively light moussaka with a glass of wine, available by the half-kilo carafe.

Ultimately, this is a clever, modern and attractive take on the robust and lively flavours of Greece, delivered with humour and at just the right price.