After proving his culinary chops as a master chef at the Press Club, George Calombaris opened this cheerful, modern Greek tavern in the sleepy end of Lygon Street. Hellenic Republic has earned a devoted following with its honest food and bright, friendly staff. The aim here is not to deconstruct or reinterpret classic Greek dishes but simply to revamp their image, presenting them with clean flavours, high-quality produce and a slightly refined edge.

Hellenic Republic is ideal for group dining with the entire menu is designed to be shared, allowing for a wider sampling of all that’s on offer. At first glance, this huge menu can be somewhat baffling, but thankfully set menu options are available. They are good value and you should expect to leave feeling uncomfortably full. Be sure to pick something off the spit roasting in the outdoor courtyard and try the deceptively light moussaka with a glass of wine, available by the half-kilo carafe.

Ultimately, Hellenic Republic is a clever, modern and attractive take on the robust and lively flavours of Greece, delivered with humour and at just the right price, from prolific the TV chef that is also responsible for Jimmy Grants, Gazi and Hellenic Republic Kew.