It’ll be busting at the seams when you arrive, but with a no bookings policy that’s part of the charm at DOC. No matter; you can ogle the fire-engine-red pedestal-mounted meat slicer while you wait, and try not to drool as plates of mozzarella whizz past.

Owner Tony Nicolini (Carlton Espresso, DOC Mornington, Ex-Pizza Espresso) is the granddaddy of artisan pizza in Melbourne, and for our money, this is some of the best. The focus is on imported ingredients (a map on the menu will help with origins) and the best-of-the-best for quality.

This is where you come if you want pizza like Italians eat – simple and brilliant combinations that don’t overload the crust or the palate. It’s thin, it’s crispy, it’s the way pizza should be.

Then there’s the mozzarella bar; we recommend the sample digustazione of three different varieties including the smoked fior di latte – the ashy flavour will blow you away.

Decor is simple in this tightly packed corner wedge of restaurant, and on a typically busy night it can be hard to squeeze between boisterous tables, but that’s just part of the charm: excellent pizza in a buoyant atmosphere.

DOC also have a sibling restaurant on the Mornington Peninsula, in a building designed by SJB architects.