It takes just one word to sum up The Commoner: charm. From the striped awning that adorns the entrance and the just-intimate-enough front room to the tiny brick courtyard, past the kitchen, it’s like finding yourself in a little den of comforting food and seasonal magic.

The Commoner prides itself on being all about the best produce for the time of year, local-focused and market fresh. Owner Jo Corrigan graces the floor, taking orders, filling water glasses and emanating welcome and passion as she recommends dishes.

The food is described as Modern British Cooking – but don’t think stodge. There’s a hearty nod to all the spices and exotica that is a legacy of the rich tradition of intrepid British explorers. Think Turkish-style wood-roast vegetables, or blue-eyed cod with house-made bacon and green sauce. There’s small-plates, share-plates and large-plates all set for divvying up with friends.

And weekend brunches here are an equally endearing treat. Fluffy Arabic pancakes might come sprinkled with crushed nuts, and the Honky sandwich of harissa, eggs and spinach gives the morning a spicy good kick – even after a horseradish-spiked bloody mary.

We love the ‘no menu, we’ll feed you’ idea on a Sunday, when you might see whole joints come out of the wood-fired oven in the tiny courtyard.

It’s convivial, charming and not the least bit common.