Very few restaurants provoke a more divisive response than Claypots, its two locations simultaneously drawing hordes of adoring fans and disgruntled first-timers. The truth is that a meal at Claypots does require some measure of patience and good humour but certainly delivers with its vibrant and fresh seafood offerings at relatively affordable prices. Both locations enforce a no-bookings policy so you should expect a short waiting period and use this opportunity to grab a drink in the bar next door (after leaving your contact details, of course). Once seated, you should order as soon as possible to avoid disappointment as popular dishes quickly sell out. Despite these obstacles, Claypots remains one of Melbourne’s most loved seafood restaurants and crowds pack the small, modestly decorated space every night of the week, generating a hub of noise and energy.

And as those crowds are testimony, Claypots can make for a really enjoyable meal. A vast offering of share-plates is detailed on the blackboard menus, with the daily specials usually the best pick. This is an environment well suited to small groups, allowing for a wider sampling of the menu. The restaurant’s namesake dish can be found in various guises, taking the flavours of Morocco, Asia and Africa as its inspiration. If Claypots is taken simply for what it is – fresh seafood served with bold and unpretentious flavours at a high turnover – you won’t be disappointed.