For locals interested in solid and consistently enjoyable cafe-style food, Le Chien in Seddon is the place to find it. It is of course, the area’s recent gentrification that has made cafes like this possible to maintain. Regardless, any neighbour would be thrilled to have a quiet place (on weekdays) to enjoy a decent coffee and the morning papers.

The massive mural on the side wall will dominate a new comer’s memory – not so vaguely propaganda-esque, what stands out is the image of a woman on all fours next to the words “une femme, un chien” [a woman, a dog] and above, an image of what is apparently Iggy Pop quoting his “I wanna be your dog”. The theme is a presence, elusively so, but thankfully it doesn’t take hold on the food.

The breakfast menu is standard but full, using lots of local ingredients – a big highlight is the meat from Andrew’s Choice, the famous Yarraville butcher shop in neighbouring suburb.

The kitchen opens onto the floor, with shelves full of both regional and European wines. The kitchen also opens for dinner several nights of the week, Wednesday night ‘game dinner’ pulls a crowd, serving options like roasted free-range partridge with shallots and red cabbage or Eton Mess with rhubarb and custard.